Now that is some stunning work. I believe you didn't had your tripod with you. It's 640 am, and the aperture is around f6.7, which is quite noticeable.
Actually I had my tripod, but did not really need it. This is with the Nikkor 17-35mm f2.8 D lens, which is incredibly sharp and performs best between f5.6-f11, with f8 being the sharpest. You may be under the impression that you always want to stop down as much as possible when shooting landscapes, however most wide angle lenses suffer from defraction on the higher f numbers. Defraction can cause egdes to become soft and not sharp.
So you mean the best is to be around 5.6-11? I am not sure about the Nikkor lenses. But I have something similar, but not as fast as yours. 17-40mm f/4 USM L by Canon, and I always stop down between f/16-22
Yeah, anything above f11 the results are less sharp. f8 tends to be the sharpest. With this lens I could probably go to f16 and be ok, however from the charts I have seen regarding this lens f8 seems to be the sharpest.
Spelled it wrong before, its Diffraction.
Something I took from [link]
When light encounters an abrupt, sharp edge such as the blades of the iris diaphragm in a lens some light is deflected. As the size of the lens aperture is reduced the effect of diffraction increases, because the light wave strike the edge of the iris blades at a more acute angle. The effects of diffraction become visible first with light of a longer wavelength (red). Typically with lenses designed for 35mm film cameras and the smaller DX-format digital sensor diffraction starts to be come an issue at apertures of f/16, or smaller. The focused distance also affects the level of diffraction; diffraction is increased as the focus distance is reduced.
Maybe look for some reviews on your lens, someone may have posted a chart regarding the sharpness and best f numbers for that lens. I realized on my own that my Tokina suffers from diffraction quite a bit when I shot a bunch of photos on f16-f22, I thought my tripod was not sturdy enough until I read about diffraction.
excellent work too
Actually I had my tripod, but did not really need it. This is with the Nikkor 17-35mm f2.8 D lens, which is incredibly sharp and performs best between f5.6-f11, with f8 being the sharpest. You may be under the impression that you always want to stop down as much as possible when shooting landscapes, however most wide angle lenses suffer from defraction on the higher f numbers. Defraction can cause egdes to become soft and not sharp.
Spelled it wrong before, its Diffraction.
Something I took from [link]
When light encounters an abrupt, sharp edge such as the blades of the iris diaphragm in a lens some light is deflected. As the size of the lens aperture is reduced the effect of diffraction increases, because the light wave strike the edge of the iris blades at a more acute angle. The effects of diffraction become visible first with light of a longer wavelength (red). Typically with lenses designed for 35mm film cameras and the smaller DX-format digital sensor diffraction starts to be come an issue at apertures of f/16, or smaller. The focused distance also affects the level of diffraction; diffraction is increased as the focus distance is reduced.
Maybe look for some reviews on your lens, someone may have posted a chart regarding the sharpness and best f numbers for that lens. I realized on my own that my Tokina suffers from diffraction quite a bit when I shot a bunch of photos on f16-f22, I thought my tripod was not sturdy enough until I read about diffraction.